Gemmologist’s Advices

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Gemmologist’s Advices

About Gemstones

A gemstone gets its value from its beauty, durability and rarity.
There is a widespread misunderstanding that rubies, diamonds, sapphires and emeralds are very expensive – unfortunately that is not always the case. Only high-quality gemstones are expensive.
The quality of gemstones is assessed on the basis of 4 characteristics:
– colour
– clarity
– cut
– carat
Pearls and precious opals also belong into the group of valuable gemstones. When buying them, it is important that you get professional advice. If you want your jewellery to be original and really valuable at the same time, we will help you to choose the stones.
Heli Kuulman, the best known gemstone expert in Estonia works in Aurum. She is a certified gemmologist-diamond expert (London diplomas, 1996/2002) and a RAPAPORT (Rapnet Diamond Trading Network) member who will assist you in purchasing investment gemstones.
Book your private appointment at the Aurum Jewellery Gallery at Kullassepa 4, Tallinn, tel 644 9874.

About Jewels

When speaking about jewels, one must know that jewels are precious adornments – i.e. made of gold, silver, and platinum and CONTAIN precious natural gemstones!
NB! Jewels ARE NOT adornments made of silver or other non-precious metals with glass crystals, even less so the so-called bijouterie, which are widely offered by our trade to the customer in great quantities and often with misleading information. These pieces are mainly meant for children and young people, there are no rules for giving as such cheap commercial jewellery as a gift and no special durability or value is expected. “Wear until it breaks and buy a new one” … The best known representative of this product group is Swarovski crystal – lead glass, which is generally glued into a jewel and the back side of which is covered with a mirror layer in order to achieve better sparkle.

Buying jewelry as a gift

First of all you must be sure that this valuable gift will bring join the receiver! If you are unsure, better buy a gift card to the jewellery shop and the person the gift is intended for can choose the jewel. Jewellery is timeless and classic and not affected by the fast fashion trends.
As a rule, jewels are given as a gift to close ones. It is recommended to give jewellery as a collection – each next piece should match the ones previously bought. With time, the person will have a set of unique jewellery, where all the pieces match. The value of such collection grows in time and it can be bequeathed to one’s children. There are rules for WEARING JEWELLERY.
– Firstly, the jewellery has to harmonise with the wearer’s personality, but also with the event attended. There is a great difference in jewellery worn at a festive gala event or afternoon cocktail, as well as of course everyday jewellery. We recommend not wearing jewellery when doing household chores!
– Secondly – take care of your jewellery! It is very wrong to think that the main value of valuable jewellery is their durability, that a piece of jewellery should stand constant wearing 24/7. A precious piece of jewellery must be taken care of in order not to damage the gemstones in the jewellery. A diamond is a very hard yet very brittle stone – it can break as a result of any blow or falling. All other precious stones are even more susceptible to scratches and blows.
– Pearl jewellery require special care – pearls become dull when in contact with perfumes, varnishes, creams or household chemicals. Pearls also do not stand scratching or kneading. Pearl surface that has once been damaged cannot be restored. Pearls can only be cleaned with a clean and damp cloth.
– Additionally, all jewellery require regular cleaning. Transparent gemstones collect grease and dust, the easiest way to get rid of it is to bathe the jewellery in a solution of warm water and dishwashing liquid, which removes the grease layer and the gemstone will become shiny again. Gold chains can also be cleaned in such manner of the grease that has been collecting between the chain links.

About Trends

Naturally, the world of jewellery has its own trends, but this does not mean that the old precious jewellery has lost its charm. On the contrary – the more valuable the jewel, the more its value will grow in time! The extremely valuable jewellery is sold at auctions. When speaking about current trends – the world of jewellery is also moving towards simplicity. This means that next to the classic solid cut jewels, the jewellers have started using also the semi-clear forms of gemstones by using e.g. plate cut, cabochon cut, but also rose cut. Such semi-transparent, simple-coloured gemstones are significantly cheaper than perfect jewels and provide plenty of inspiration for designers. World jewellery exhibitions present increasingly jewellery with semi-cut forms of rubies, sapphires, aquamarines and tourmalines. Cheaper gemstones allow designing large jewellery pieces, which has been the favourite in jewellery fashion in recent years. Large gemstones of the quartz group are used a lot, including amethyst, citrine, smoky quartz, pink quartz, garnet and periodite. All drop-shaped and the so-called briolette cut gemstones are very fashionable, especially in earrings and necklaces. In case of pearls, there is a new trend of classic white 2- or 3-row long pearls, multi-row bracelets and jewellery made of large baroque pearls. Pendant drop-shaped earrings are currently very much in fashion. The demand for silver jewellery among precious metals has significantly increased – this is mainly due to the price, but white gold has also superseded the yellow and pink gold for some time. At the same time there is a trend of two- or three-colour golden jewellery, the peak of which has not yet been achieved in Estonia. In case of diamond rings, white gold or platinum that support the bright colourless glow of the diamond are always preferred.

GEMMOLOGIST SERVICES

– Gemstone expertise and evaluation
– Ordering certified color gemstones, pearls and diamonds
– Investment consulting

FINE JEWELRY AND CUSTOM MADE JEWELRY ORDERS

– Jewelry design, choosing of gemstones, consulting

ADVICES

HELI KUULMAN FGA, gemmologist / diamond expert, London 1996/2002